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Tests and review of 30 natural (and effective?) slug repellents

 

And a proposal for an intelligent, sustainable slug management method.

natural slug repellents
Contenus masquer
Tests and review of 30 natural (and effective?) slug repellents

Robin

A passionate experimental vegetable grower, I had huge slug problems during my first 2 years of vegetable gardening.

Nothing (eggshells, ashes, etc.) seemed to work…

And yet, if the Internet was to be believed, everything was supposed to work…

In short, faced with an obvious problem of misinformation, I decided to take action: I tested all the famous “slug barriers”, so as to have a clear mind, and know what to do.

I filmed my (13) tests(here, in French)

The results were crystal clear: nothing was able to effectively block the path of slugs and snails, except Water, usable with trenches at least 5 cm deep and 10 cm wide, or Copper, if used vertically, if its height is at least 7 cm

But a water-based barrier is difficult to implement, and copper is expensive…

It was by turning to scientific studies that I found the solution: adopting a slug predator in the garden, present everywhere in the world, which has a huge regulatory effect on them.

The studies show it. And I called this predator the Alpha predator of slugs.

Using dozens of scientific studies again, I constructed an action plan of the most effective arrangements to attract this Alpha predator to the garden sustainably, and to see it multiply by itself, year after year, season after season.

And to get rid, definitively (and intelligently), of slugs.

I have gathered these 7 steps in a digital book that I propose on this site, and at the end of the book, there is also a video training module on designing a slug-proof garden.

You can find this digital book (which contains all of this) by clicking here. And what if you don’t get rid of your slugs by following the advice in this book? It’s simple, I will refund you in full (but it will work, if you follow the instructions properly).

So, don’t hesitate to discover the simple 7 Steps that can change your springs.

Introduction: what can be done about slugs and snails?

 

For many, slugs are considered or perceived as “pests”, ready only to “ravage” a garden. This would be to forget that slugs, the majority of which are indigenous species, play an important role in the ecosystem. Like many other insects and animals, they take part in the degradation of organic matter, which is then transformed by soil micro-organisms. But the slugs’ favorite targets are plants that have reached the end of their life cycle, are wilted and therefore not essential to the garden’s yield, and are potential carriers of disease.

Also, through their mucus and their work, slugs hydrate, aerate and bind the soil. I wrote an article that explains much better all the advantages of having slugs in the garden.

Like the vast majority of garden insects and animals, slugs play an important role in the complex system that is our garden.

The 7 Steps Action Plan to definitively (and intelligently) get rid of slugs (and snails).

the seven steps to definitly get rids of slugs

It is nevertheless true that periodically slug population “booms” can occur can occur, often with serious consequences consequences on your crops. And it’s understandable not to want to wait for the natural regulation promised by Mr Coves.

 

What to do in such cases? How do you get rid of slugs, some would say? I prefer to focus on how to regulate slug population. In general, as we saw in the previous video, in a permaculture garden, we don’t “get rid of”, we try to “deal with”, to regulate, to manage, even to control, which leads to a much more lasting resolution of what was then perceived as a problem.

So, which “Perma” methods are effective? Are there any natural slug repellents that are acceptable in permaculture?

 

Definitions of what is “Perma” and what is not, often vary widely from one person to another. This classification of methods, mainly based on a bibliography, refers to my point of view, and anyone can discuss it. I try to do this type of classification whenever I can.

 

I. Natural, homemade and short-term slug-proofing methods and barriers for fast, effective and “Perma” action

 

gusci d'uovo lumache

When a slug population increases rapidly, you’ll often need to act fast to save your most vital crops. In such cases, many use beer traps, or slug pellets based on ferric phosphate or metaldehyde. These are methods that I don’t recommend, and even more so for people who want to stay within the permaculture philosophy. For more on this subject, see the section entitled “Slug control methods not compatible with a permaculture garden” at the end of this article.

 

To limit the damage to your vegetable garden, there are many natural, “perma” and homemade tricks.

 

In this first section, I’ll review some of these methods, which I’ll classify as “short-term”. Indeed, even if most of these grandmother’s remedies against slugs and anti-slug barriers have proven to be effective, they are actions to be repeated frequently for real effectiveness (To qualify this first category of “short-term” methods, I arbitrarily place myself in the position of a gardener with limited time and energy), or they cannot provide lasting protection for your crops (for a number of reasons: modification of soil pH, impact on plants, non-permanent barriers), and even fewer resolve the underlying imbalance to this slug population explosion. Methods whose efficacy appears to be moderate or highly controversial also fall into this category.

 

1. Collecting slugs by hand

 

anti limace

The first of these methods is the one that springs to mind first, and is used by many permaculture gardeners.

Equip yourself with a headlamp, and set off at dusk in search of the slugs you’ll be picking.

This method is much more effective for red slugs, which are large and often clearly visible, than for grey slugs, which are small and blend in more easily with their surroundings. It should be repeated as often as necessary.

How do you (gently) get rid of the slugs you’ve collected?

Once you’ve picked them, I think the best thing to do is to release them a good kilometer from your home, in an environment that suits them (a wood, a forest, a meadow…).

While this method is highly effective if carried out regularly, it excludes slugs from your garden system, without resolving the underlying imbalance (lack of natural predators or consumable plants other than your vegetables, for example). I think that, apart from the much more ethical aspect of it, in your garden system, it’s the same thing as removing them, and doesn’t solve the problem in the long term.

 

2. Set up hiding places or traps (non-lethal), then collect the slugs.

 

The idea here is to “round up” the slugs to make them easier to collect. This is particularly effective for hard-to-spot grey slugs.

Place numerous slug shelters (tiles, wooden planks, large stones, etc.) under which you can even add “bait” such as cabbage leaves or cucumber slices.

Then simply turn the shelters over and collect the slugs. To release them, follow the same instructions as in the previous section.

 

3. Different types of “short-term” natural anti-slug barriers

 

1. Crushed eggshells: an ineffective natural “anti-slug” agent

 

 

Eggshells are used by many to create a natural barrier against slugs. But their effectiveness is much debated.. . See the eggshell and ash video test at the end of this section.

Even so, this technique seems to work for some people, so give it a try!

2. Wood ash or lime as a natural summer “slug killer

 

 

Arranged as a slug barrier around your plants, wood ash prevents slugs from attacking them (slugs hate dry ash). Even so, this should be repeated after each rainfall, as slugs can, on the contrary, move around on damp ash (see the eggshell and ash test video at the end of this section, where the strong effect of dry ash is also clearly visible).

 

Impact on your crop soils :

 

+: ash is very rich in mineral salts, limestone and potassium (K), and can therefore act as a fertilizer in small doses.

 

– Too much ash is detrimental to the chemical and biological balance of the soil, and increases the pH of your soil, making it unsuitable for calcareous soils or acid-loving plants. Ash also has asphyxiating properties for insects (and therefore for beneficials), although its impact is less than that of diatomaceous earth.

 

3. Coffee grounds: a natural “anti-slug” barrier, moderately effective

Many people also use coffee grounds as a slug barrier. To do this, spread a thick layer around the plants. Thegrainy aspect of this material would tend to put them off crossing, according to what is most often said. After a test I carried out and filmed (see the video at the end of this section), it turns out that coffee grounds act through their fragrance (although their texture is also of interest). But here too, the efficacy of this approach is hotly debated.

 

Impact on your crop soils :

 

+: coffee grounds can have a fertilizing effect on certain target plants (cabbage), so it’s best to use them composted.

 

– : non-composted coffee grounds have a strong growth-inhibiting effect on plants

 

Don’t forget to turn up the sound! 😀

 

4. Fine sand: a natural anti-slug barrier, for dry use only

 

 

Fine white sand (silica) also seems to be used successfully by a few people. Slugs hate contact with it when it’s dry. A sufficient layer of sand, laid down as a barrier, would seem to deter slugs from crossing it to eat your plants. However, I think the use of sand could impoverish your soil. And once it’s wet, its effect falls to zero!

 

5. Hair or wool: natural barrier “anti-slug”, for dry use only

 

cheveux-anti-limaces

 

To put an end to slug barriers, it also seems possible to use hair, bristles or wool. Crossing a barrier of hair or wool doesn’t irritate slugs (as many people like to say), but it does hamper them terribly in their progress, by sticking and clumping to their mucus, offering no grip, and also making them drool a lot.

But once wet, their effect, too, falls to zero!

 

4. Keep slugs away by diverting their attention, or agree to share plants and crops

Slug-attracting cucumber

 

The aim here is to divert the slugs’ attention quickly and directly. Sacrificial massifs, while working on the same basic principle, are not included in this section, as I consider them to be a more long-term solution.

 

The aim here will be to feed slugs choice foods, so that they leave your plants alone, keeping them away from them.

 

For example, place slices of cucumber, lettuce or cabbage leaves on a plate a little way from your vegetable garden. You can also use your fruit and vegetable peelings.

 

Another solution, and probably the most perma-solution of all, is to decide to share your vegetable garden with slugs, i.e. toaccept losses until the problem is naturally regulated by predators. But unfortunately, this is often very complicated when the number of individuals in your garden explodes, and doing nothing can prove disastrous in terms of harvest.

The
surface composting
is also a good method of distracting slugs.

 

5. Slug repellents and other natural plant-based preparations

 

anti-slug fern purin

You can use slurry to protect your vegetable garden from slugs, by keeping them directly away from protected plants.

 

I haven’t tried them myself, but here are the recipes I’ve seen cited:

 

  • Garlic: slugs don’t like the smell of garlic. You can also make a repellent preparation by putting crushed garlic in water, leaving it to macerate for 3-4 days, then spraying the resulting liquid at the base of your plants. Renew every 2-3 days.
  • Wormwood: purin or fresh branches to be sprayed/dropped at the base of plants. Recipe for slurry: 150 g of leaves in 5 liters of simmering water. Heat for 20 minutes. Allow to cool, filter and spray undiluted.
  • Wormwood: Purin: 1 kg of fresh leaves and stems in 10 liters of water, to be sprayed at the base of your plants.
  • Ferns: manure: as they decompose, ferns release formaldehyde. Purin to be sprayed at the base of your plants. Can also be used as a slug-proof mulch (see “Slug-proof mulch” below).
  • Rue officinale: Purin: Chop 100 grams of fresh rue leaves and stems (pick before flowering and setting seed for best results). Leave to macerate for 10 days in 1 liter of cold water, stirring daily. Filter, dilute to 20%, then spray at the base of your plants.
  • Euphorbia: purin diluted to 15%, spray at foot of plants

Although it’s likely that most of these sprays will have an immediate effect (just look at the reaction of slugs to the smell of garlic and you’ll see that a garlic maceration is likely to be very effective. But the problem, unfortunately (and yes, you’ve guessed it, it’s far too good to be that simple!), is that with the first rain the plants will be “washed” of their sprays, and after just a few days, even in dry weather, you’ll have to start spraying again to restore the “anti-slug” fragrance to its former glory.

 

II. Longer-lasting natural slug barriers

 

It’s also possible to build long-lasting, homemade anti-slug barriers to protect your garden for longer than most of the tips above.

 

1. Chestnut bugs: a long-lasting slug-proof barrier

 

insetti castagne lumache

 

According to the most solid of gardening legends, the thorns on chestnut bugs prevent slugs from climbing them. So, a real miracle solution or a centuries-old subterfuge? So create a prickly barrier with chestnut half-boogies, prickly towards the sky, around the plants to be protected. And keep me posted in the comments! 🙂

(I planned to do the test live on one of my videos, but unfortunately there are very few chestnut bugs near me, I’ll have to get some!)

If all goes well, in autumn, collect the bugs and put them under cover to prevent them from rotting. Then reinstall them in early spring!

 

2. Spiny branches: a false slug-proof barrier

 

blackberries

Using the same principle, you can create “impenetrable” slug barriers using branches with “hard” thorns, such as roses, brambles or pyracantha. However, make sure that slugs can’t get between the thorns: to do this, make mini-faggots of several branches. Also favor thorny plants with a sufficient density of thorns on the stem. A good alternative for those who don’t have chestnut trees in their area, but probably less reliable all the same.

 

Feedback: olala, another myth!

  1. Try, in practice, to make mini-faggots of brambles or rose stems, so that each section between two thorns is smaller than the slug’s diameter (otherwise Miss will pass between them). Did you succeed? Then you’re a demigod…
  2. …And you have the honor of seeing that it doesn’t work either! Because, in my test, my dear Hector (my test slug) even takes pleasure in making little detours through the thorns! To be forgotten in my opinion.

 

3. Needle branches: a fairly effective natural “anti-slug”, as a mulch or barrier.

On a different principle to chestnut bogues and rose branches, conifer branch barriers are also very effective in preventing slugs from gaining access to your plants. Gossip has it that the movement of slugs on the needles of these branches is very irritating for them, and dehydrates them, discouraging them from crossing. In my opinion, it’s in no way irritating for them. I’ve seen them glide over pine needles, or other supports… with their mucus, there’s virtually no friction: and without friction, no irritation is possible. On the other hand, it’s quite an obstacle for them, because it’s not easy to make their way through it: and that’s why, yes, it does tend to dehydrate them a bit, because they travel a lot further than they would without the pine needles.

It’s very difficult to test, as slugs hide underneath, but I’ve had a lot of positive feedback about it, so give it a try!

Branches and needles from pine, fir, spruce, juniper, etc. can also be used. You can also use needle mulch, which has the advantage of making it harder for slugs to move around a much larger section of garden!

 

4. Anti-slug mulches: better than “anti-slugs”, an unfavorable environment

spine di pino lumache

 

You can also try out different types of slug-proof mulch:

 

  • Sawdust
  • Linen
  • Crumbled fern
  • Oak leaf crumble

 

The legend about these mulches, as with conifer needles, is that they irritate slugs that venture onto them, and thus invite them to avoid them. Que neni! It doesn’t irritate them (as seen above)! On the other hand, yes, some of these mulches can make it difficult for a family of gastropods to get to their Sunday picnic: but which ones?

According to my tests (you can find them on my
my youtube channel
), the feedback I’ve received, and the discussions on the
perma pest management group
:

  • Sawdust and flax are two effective mulches, as they are highly absorbent, and will stick to the slugs at the slightest contact with their mucus, forming a kind of cluster of shavings around them, which greatly hinders their progress, and causes them to secrete a lot of mucus. Slugs will have a hard time getting through and will think twice before setting foot in the area again. But, of course, it couldn’t be that easy either: with the slightest rain, losing all absorbency once the sawdust or flax flakes are waterlogged, efficiency drops to zero!
  • For crumbled oak and fern leaves, it depends… In fact, this only has an effect when the oak leaves or ferns are in one of their final stages of decomposition, when the leaves are nothing more than leaf powder, which begins to mix with the soil. It’s this leaf powder that’s effective (like ash, sand, flour… dry powder also seems to have an absorbent effect that slugs hate): bigger, it has no effect. However, it is often claimed that the scent of eagle ferns has a repellent effect: but in practice, and following my tests and what was said on one of our facebook group posts, the effectiveness seems very doubtful.

III. Keep slugs away from the vegetable garden with a sacrificial bed

 

Mustard slug plant

A more durable solution to the slug “distraction” mentioned above (slices of cucumber, cabbage…) is the planting a bed of plants that will be much appreciated by slugs and suffer their attacks or limit the damage (hence the name “sacrificial”: a sacrifice for the vegetable garden).

It also allows you to “share” your garden with slugs, without sharing the harvest. It’s a method that doesn ‘t exclude slugs from your garden, but rather integrates them. It is perfectly suited to the insertion of natural predators (part V), or even to the creation of slug barriers on your plants to be protected (parts I and II) or the planting of repellent plants close to the vegetable garden (part IV).

 

Here is a non-exhaustive list of plants particularly appreciated by slugs, which may be worth planting in a sacrificial bed:

 

  • yellow mustard
  • sunflower
  • hosta
  • dahlia
  • zinnia
  • radish
  • rapeseed
  • dandelion
  • watercress

 

There seem to be two schools of thought when it comes to “sacrifice” plants: either put them at the bottom of the garden to keep the slug population away from your kitchen garden. Either plant these plants inside your garden, between your crops: the slugs in your garden are more likely to choose these plants than the ones you care about. I think it might be a good idea to combine these two techniques: the majority of slugs will be attracted to a large sacrificial bed at the bottom of the garden, and the few remaining slugs in your vegetable garden will attack the “sacrificial” plants you’ve planted, rather than your vegetable plants.

 

IV. Naturally slug-repellent plants

 

Borage anti-slug plant

How to keep slugs out of your vegetable garden, using repellent plants?

Plants in the garden often have many uses. After possible use in slug pellets and sacrificial beds, there are also plants that are naturally repellent to slugs. These plants have a taste that slugs find highly distasteful and/or irritating, which can encourage them to turn back at their proximity. I recently read the testimony of someone whose tomato plants had been severely attacked by slugs, except for those near borage plants.

 

Here is a non-exhaustive list of these “slug-proof” plants:

 

  • Borage
  • Garlic (and wild garlic)
  • Fennel
  • Ginger
  • Thyme
  • Rosemary
  • Chives
  • Mint
  • Comfrey
  • Chervil

Here, and according to a survey launched on our
perma pest management group
only borage has been shown to have a real repellent effect.

 

 

 

To learn more about how to manage slugs with plants, read the article below.

Prevention through plants

 

In detail

V. Installing natural or adopted predators for sustainable slug population control

1. Installing natural predators: automatic, natural slug control

When it comes to the long-term natural regulation of a slug population (as emphasized by Hervé Coves with what he calls holistic slug management), the first players in this natural regulation are the gastropods’ natural predators. Encouraging them to settle in the garden is one of the best ways to solve your slug problem permanently.

The predators presented in this article are only a sample of all slug predators, and the sections on possible ways of accommodating them in the garden are rather sketchy. For complete articles on each of these predators, go to the slug and snail predator articles portal page.

hedgehog

1. Hedgehogs as slug predators

Able togobble up 10 large slugs in a single night, the hedgehog is one of the biggest slug predators you’ll find in your garden.

How to attract it to the garden?

A garden with a hedge lined with oak leaves is an ideal place for them to make their home. As it likes to nest in thorny thickets, you can add bramble to your hedge, which will attract it even more.

You can also build him a shelter, using large stones, large logs (wood piles), or cinder blocks. Here is an example that I think is very well done:

2. Carabid beetles and millipedes, specialized slug predators :

Slug predator ground beetle

Along with millipedes, carabids are soil predators. Both species are fond of slugs.

How do you attract them to your garden?

To attract carabid beetles and millipedes to your garden, you can plant red clover, the plant most conducive to their settlement.

The presence of hedges and tall grasses, as well as small natural shelters (stones, branches), also favors their installation.

3. Toads, predators of slugs

A toad seen from the front

Toads are far less specialized slug predators (they’re called generalist predators) than hedgehogs and ground beetles. However, they also serve to regulate the population.

How do you attract them to your garden?

You can follow the same guidelines as for the hedgehog, leaving small natural shelters for it to take shelter in, as well as creating dark, damp corners.

4. Ornets, specialized slug predators

Orvet slug predator

The orvet is an effective predator of slugs. It’s a generalist predator, and having it in your garden is a great way to keep a slug population in check.

How to attract it to the garden?

Dark, damp corners, a hedge and tall grass.

5. Birds, predators of small slugs and snails

predatory birds slugs

Many birds also prey on slugs, and you can take advantage of this by attracting them to your garden.

How do you attract them to your garden?

You can install nesting boxes, plant berry trees, and encourage the life of garden insects (which they feed on).

6. The leopard slug, a slug that eats other slugs

slugs leopard natural predator

Be careful when collecting gastropods: leopard slugs are predators of other slug species It’s best to leave them in your garden.

 

2. Installing predators: a powerful but radical slug pest control system

Unlike natural predators, these slug predators are often non-native, and need to be inserted into your garden system yourself.

In my opinion, inserting adopted predators into a garden to control (or even eradicate) a slug population is not, in my opinion (once again), in line with the permaculture philosophy. To find out why I don’t think it’s a good idea to use Indian runner ducks or nematodes for slug control, go to the slug and snail predator articles page!

I refer to these adopted predators in this article because they are widely used in permaculture, and I can understand why opinions may differ from mine on this subject.

1. Indian runner ducks, big slug and salad predators

Indian racing duck slugs

Ducks in general, but more specifically Indian runners, are great slug predators and can help regulate their numbers in the event of a population boom.

2. Chickens, predators of small grey slugs

slug predator hens

Chickens are also fond of slugs. If you have a chicken coop, it may be a good idea to let them roam your garden if slugs are a concern for your vegetable garden.

3. Nematodes, invisible predators

Nematodes (microscopic worms that live in the soil in their natural state) are also commercially available to supplement natural predators in the event of an excessive increase in the slug population. Once in the vegetable garden, they are formidable predators (specialists) for slugs.

     

     

    To learn more about how to manage slugs by attracting predators, read the article below.

     

     

    Welcoming predators

    In detail

    VI. Better than slug repellents, preventative garden management

     

    If your garden is seasonally invaded by slugs If your garden is seasonally invaded by slugs, a good way to prevent this is to design your garden accordingly. As they say, prevention is better than cure! This can be done by planting repellent plants, a sacrificial bed, erecting durable barriers around your vegetable garden, or by creating the conditions for natural predators.

     

    I’ve seen a lot of slug-unfriendly landscaping instructions, such as not mulching the soil, or getting rid of all the dark, damp hiding places in the garden. For a permaculture garden, I don’t think these solutions are entirely appropriate.

    For one thing,
    mulching has many advantages
    that I think it’s a shame to do without, especially in permaculture: it reduces the need for weeding and watering, and improves the structure and life of the soil, notably by encouraging beneficial insects to settle in. On the other hand, it can be very useful to clear the soil only when slug populations are at their highest. Then put the mulch back on as soon as the damselflies are less numerous!

    Secondly, removing dark, damp hiding places in the garden also hinders the long-term establishment of beneficial insects, particularly hedgehogs, orvets and toads in this case. This can be counterproductive.

     

    1. Manage watering to control slugs

    irrigazione schiaffo

    A very simple way of limiting the number of slugs in your vegetable garden is to water only in the morning, rather than in the evening. Slugs are more active at night (during the day, they hide from the heat), and wet soil attracts them. Here too, I know that opinions on this subject can be contradictory, given that it’s often recommended (apart from slug overpopulation problems) to water your garden in the evening.

     

    2. Avoid plants and flowers that are too sensitive to slugs

    lumache della dalia

    In my opinion, however, the best way to prevent a slug population boom in at-risk areas is to planting vegetables and flowers that are not very sensitive to slug attacks. Between your plantings, which are less to their liking, your compost peelings and weeds, slugs may well prefer the latter two alternatives.

     

    Here is a list of vegetable plants that are highly susceptible to slug attacks:

     

    • Basil
    • Cabbage
    • Strawberry (fruits)
    • Bean
    • Leaf, head and Boston lettuce
    • Corn
    • Soybeans

     

    Here is a list of flowers that are highly susceptible to slug attacks:

     

    • Begonia
    • Canna
    • Dahlia
    • Delphinium
    • Hosta (thin-leaf varieties only)
    • Ligular
    • Lily of the valley
    • Primrose
    • Tagetes

     

    VII. Slug repellents not compatible with a permaculture garden

     

    In this section, you’ll find the slug repellents I consider incompatible with the permaculture philosophy. The first reason is the lethality of these processes. But these methods are also often counter-productive, harming the garden’s natural enemies.

     

    1. Slug pellets: unnatural, unsustainable and counter-productive

    pellet anti-lumache

    The slug pellets are lethal baits for slugs and snails. There are two types of slug pellets on the market: metaldehyde-based slug pellets – not permitted in organic farming – and ferric phosphate-based slug pellets, also lethal but used in organic farming.

     

    It should be noted that the use of slug pellets aggravates infestations over the long term. This leads to a “yo-yo effect”. Indeed, using slug pellets harms their natural predators (a hedgehog feeding on slugs that have consumed this type of pellet can also be poisoned), and a natural balance cannot be established in your garden. Blue slug pellets (with metaldehyde) are also dangerous for your cat or dog, who may be poisoned if they eat them.

     

    What’s more, all slug baits contain powerful attractants. They attract slugs and snails from afar with their scent, drawing slugs from all over your neighborhood. Although some granules are consumed, leftover granules will carry their attractive substances into the soil when it rains. These attractive substances remain in the soil longer than the granules themselves, which means that more and more slugs and snails will arrive in your garden.

     

    On top of that, dead gastropods are a powerful attraction for other gastropods. If slugs and dead snails are not collected, the yo-yo effect will be intensified.

     

    2. Beer traps: anti-slug and anti-carabid

    trappola per la birra

    Like slug pellets, beer traps may seem like a good solution, but they actually make the problem worse. The smell of beer attracts slugs and snails from all over the neighborhood to your garden. In addition, they can kill some of snails’ natural enemies, such as leopard slugs, ground beetles and millipedes. What’s more, a hedgehog that has eaten slugs drowned in beer is likely to suffer from the effects of alcohol, which can sometimes be fatal. It could, for example, drown in a small pool of water.

     

    3. Diatomaceous earth: a natural anti-slug and anti-aid agent

    Diatomaceous earth is an effective anti-slug barrier. When the diatomaceous earth is dry and placed in large enough quantities, the gastropods dehydrate and die as they try to pass through it.

     

    Diatomaceous earth not only loses its effectiveness when wet -when it works-, but also usually kills slugs and other insects that try to get through it.

     

    To learn about my doubts about ferramol, or to learn about the negative effects of salt or beer traps, read the article below:

     

    Methods to avoid

    In detail

     

    VIII. Conclusion

    permaculture pests

    The aim of this article was to bring together all the existing slug control methods. And to highlight those that I consider usable in a permaculture garden.

     

    In fact, you can find countless articles on slug repellents on the net. But I’ve often had the impression that this information was very diluted across these numerous sites, and finding one’s way around is sometimes quite complicated. The aim here is for everyone to be able to refer to a standard document in which all effective methods of responsible slug control are listed and described. What’s more, it’s important for me to highlight the most sustainable and responsible solutions, while informing everyone about those that are best avoided. It’s also important to note that most media reports are wrong about the effectiveness of most slug barriers: eggshells, brambles, etc… And the myths about it are nourished.

     

    Obviously, the structure I’ve chosen to give my article implies a certain degree of subjectivity, but my opinion is only my opinion, and I welcome any comments, which can only enrich this document. Send them to me if you have any, and I’ll be happy to complete this article to make it as complete as possible.

    If you’d rather browse through my articles, here’s a portal to the various sub-articles presented in the outline at the start of this summary article:

    Slugs: their role in the garden

     

    In detail

    Prevention through plants

     

    In detail

    Welcoming predators

    In detail

    Surface composting

    In detail

    Methods to avoid

    In detail

    The 7 Steps Action Plan to definitively (and intelligently) get rid of slugs (and snails).

    the seven steps to definitly get rids of slugs

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